Garbage Disposal Troubleshooting

Garbage disposals first began to appear in homes in the late 1940s and are now standard equipment in the modern kitchen. The design of a garbage disposal is fairly simple and hasn't changed much over the years. A motor spins a drive shaft which is connected to a drum that contains sharp cutting blades. The blades pulverize food waste as they spin. If your garbage disposal stops working, you can troubleshoot the problem before calling a plumber and possibly save yourself the cost of an expensive service call.


Tools Of The Trade
Garbage disposal wrench
Flashlight
Long standard screwdriver

Step 1:
Turn off the switch that controls the garbage disposal.

Step 2:
Locate the reset button on the bottom of the garbage disposal. Probe the bottom of the unit with your hand until you find the button. Press the button in and hold it for 15 seconds. Turn the unit back on to determine if that solved the problem.

Step 3:
Unplug the garbage disposal from the wall outlet or turn off the circuit breaker associated with the unit if the previous step didn't work.

Step 4:
 Insert the specialized wrench that came with the garbage disposal into the fitting underneath the disposal. The wrench looks like a large Allen wrench that is bent at either end. The wrench can be used to free a stuck drive shaft. Move the drive shaft back and forth with the wrench, then restore power to the unit and turn on the switch. Sometimes this is enough to get the garbage disposal spinning again.

Step 5:
Shine a flashlight into drain if the garbage disposal is humming but won't spin. Use a long standard screwdriver to probe the edges to determine if something has been lodged in between and is preventing the drum from spinning. Ensure that you unplug the unit or shut off its circuit breaker while performing this task. If you see something stuck, try to pry it out with the screwdriver and reach in a grab it with your hand. Many times silverware or other small objects can become lodged between the drum and the housing and prevent the unit from functioning.

Replacing Screen On Sliding Patio Door

A sliding screen door allows warm air to enter the home while keeping out bugs and other pests. Over time and with use, the screen in the door can become worn and even tear. When this happens the screen can no longer keep out the bugs and pests as it was designed to do. You can replace an old and worn screen in your patio door with the right tools and materials and with a moderate investment of time.


Tools Of The Trade
Two saw horses
Piece of plywood
Eight one foot pieces of 2-by-4s
2-1/2 inch wood screws
Electric drill
Driver bit
Standard screwdriver
Spline
Screen
Spline tool
Utility knife

Step 1:
Remove the door from the frame by grabbing it on both sides and lifting it up and pulling out the bottom from the track. Pull the top out of the track on top once the bottom has been removed.

Step 2:
Setup two saw horses parallel to each other and about five feet apart. Lay a piece of plywood on top of the saw horses. Place the screen door on the plywood.

Step 3:
Place two pieces of one foot lengths of 2-by-4s around each corner of the door and secure them to the plywood using 2-1/2 inch wood screws and an electric drill with a driver bit installed. The 2-by-4s will ensure that the door frame stays square while the old screen is removed and the new one is installed.

Step 4:
Pry out the spline that holds the old screen into the frame using a standard screwdriver and starting at a corner. Pull out the entire spline from around the door using a combination of the screwdriver and your hand. Pull off the old screen from the frame once all the spline has been removed.

Step 5:
Place the new screen evenly over the frame. When you purchase the screen ensure that it is 3 to 4 inches larger on all sides than the door frame.

Step 6:
Press the new spline over the screen and into the channel in the door frame, thus trapping the screen in the channel. Ensure that the spline has no slack in it as you work it into the channel around the frame. Use a spline tool to insert the spline into the channel. Also ensure that the screen lays flat and doesn't wrinkle.

Step 7:
Cut off the excess screen from around the frame using a utility knife. Reinstall the door by inserting the top into the track at the top of the door frame, then set the bottom in place.

Furnace Thermocouple Replacement

A thermocouple on a gas furnace has one end connected to the gas valve and the other connected to the pilot light. When it senses that the pilot has been extinguished, the thermocouple shuts off the valve to stop the flow of gas. If the pilot on your furnace will not stay lighted, and there hasn't been an interruption of gas service into the home, you may have a malfunctioning thermocouple. You can purchase a new thermocouple at most hardware or home improvement stores for less than $20, according to 2011 prices. Take the old thermocouple to the store with you to ensure that the replacement is the correct length.


Tools Of The Trade
Standard screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Nut driver
Adjustable wrench
Thermocouple

Step 1:
Shut off the gas supply to the furnace by locating the closest shutoff valve and turning it completely clockwise.

Step 2:
Locate the pilot light access panel, which is usually toward the bottom of the furnace in the front. Remove the fasteners that secure the access panel using a standard screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver or nut driver, depending on the type of fasteners used. Turn the screws counterclockwise to loosen them.

Step 3:
Unfasten the old thermocouple from the gas valve and the pilot light using an adjustable wrench to turn the fittings counterclockwise.

Step 4:
Install the new thermocouple by threading the fittings on both ends clockwise onto the valve and the pilot light by hand. Tighten the fittings completely using the adjustable wrench.

Step 5:
Restore the gas supply to the furnace and relight the pilot light. Replace the access panel.

Soldering Copper Plumbing

Much of the plumbing in the modern home consist of copper pipes. Copper is durable, easy to work with and doesn't rust like iron or steel. Lengths of copper plumbing are connected together via couplings, Ts and elbows. The connection is sealed using solder and a propane torch. Shutoff valves can also be soldered, although in many modern applications a compression fitting is used. No matter what the copper plumbing task, you can achieve professional results by following a straightforward procedure.


Tools Of The Trade
Emery paper
Propane torch
Silver solder
Bucket of cool water
Rag

Step 1:
Clean the ends of the copper pipe being soldered as well as the insides of the coupling, T or elbow being used. Use emery paper to rub off any oils or dirt on the copper, which can prevent you from achieving a solid solder joint. Place a bucket of cool water in the work area in case flammable material around the pipe becomes ignited.

Step 2:
Fit the copper pipes into the coupling, T or elbow and ensure they are completely and evenly inserted.

Step 3:
Light the propane torch and adjust the flame so that the tip of it is blue.

Step 4:
Hold the tip of the flame on the joint you are soldering for about 30 seconds to heat the metal thoroughly.

Step 5:
Touch the tip of the silver solder to the joint while continuing to hold the torch's flame on the joint but not directly on the solder. The solder will melt when touched to the heated copper and roll around the joint. Move the tip of the solder around the entire circumference of the joint to esnure it has a bead of solder on it. Place a cool damp rag on the joint to cool the solder quickly.

Stove Top Igniter Replacement

Most gas stoves manufactured since the early 1980s are equppied with an electronic igniter. The igniter provides a spark that lights the pilot light when the burners are operated. This method saves fuel because the burners are only burning gas when the unit is operating instead of all the time as stoves did previously. If the burners on your gas stove top are not lighting, you may need to replace the igniter. You can accomplish this task by following a step-by-step procedure that requires a minimal amount of time and effort.

Tools Of The Trade
Phillips screwdriver
Igniter

Step 1:
Unplug the stove's electrical cord or shut off the circuit breaker associated with the stove.

Step 2:
Remove the burner grates and anything else on the stove top.

Step 3:
Lift up the stove top and place the prop rod underneath it to keep it raised in the service position. Some tops don't have a prop rod because they lock into the upright position when lifted.

Step 4:
Locate the igniter, which is a cylindrical device the size of a roll of quarters and sits next to the pilot light.

Step 5:
Unfasten the two screws that secure the igniter to its bracket using a Phillips screwdriver to turn the screws counterclockwise.

Step 6:
Pull off the wiring clip from the igniter by hand. Dispose of the old igniter.

Step 7:
Plug the wiring clip into the new igniter and secure it to its bracket using the screws. Lower the stove top and restore power.

Electrical Outlet Replacement

The average American home has many electrical outlets that make it convenient to plug in lamps, computers and other electronic devices. The standard outlet is 120 volts and is usually on a circuit with other outlets and electrical fixtures. If an outlet in your home is not working and the circuit breaker associated with it has not been tripped, the outlet may need to be replaced. You can purchase a new outlet from any hardware or home improvement store for less than $10, according to 2011 prices. Installing the outlet can be accomplished in about 15 minutes.

Tools Of The Trade
Standard screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Voltage tester
Outlet

Step 1:
Turn off the circuit breaker associated with the outlet. Test other outlets in the room with a voltage tester to ensure the electricity has been shut off. Insert the probes from the tester into each of the vertical slots on another outlet in the room and ensure the tester doesn't light or make a sound, depending on the type you are using.

Step 2:
Remove the outlet cover plate for the outlet you are replacing. Turn the screw at the center of the cover plate counterclockwise with a standard screwdriver and remove the plate from the wall. Pry up around the edges of the plate with the screwdriver if it is stuck to the wall.

Step 3:
Unfasten the screws at the top and bottom of the outlet using a Phillips screwdriver to turn the screws counterclockwise. Pull out the outlet slightly once the screws have been removed and check the wires connected to it with the voltage tester to ensure no current is present in them.

Step 4:
Turn the screws where the wires are attached counterclockwise with the Phillips screwdriver. You don't need to remove the screw, but just loosen them enough to detach the wires. There is at least two wires and may be three. The black or red wire is the hot lead, the white wire is the neutral and the copper or green wire is the ground, which may or may not be present.  The wires attach to the outlet by wrapping around the screws or by being inserted into a hole which the screw tightens and loosens.

Step 5:
Install the new outlet by connecting the hot lead (the black or red wire) around the brass-colored screw or by inserting it into the hole associated with the brass-colored screw. If you are wrapping the wire around the screw, wrap it clockwise so when you tighten the screw the same way the wire will not fall off the screw. Connect the white wire to the silver-colored screw and the copper or green wire to the green-colored screw using the same method you used to connect the hot lead.

Step 6:
Fasten the outlet to the electrical box in the wall using the two screws provided with it. Replace the cover plate and restore power to the circuit.

Faucet Valve Stem Replacement

A two-handle faucet consists of valve stems to which the handles attach. The valve stems control the water flow when the handle is turned. Over time and with use, the valve stems can wear and may become hard to turn or may not completely shut off the water to the faucet. You can expect to pay a professional plumber over $100, according to 2011 prices, to replace a valve stem in your home. You can complete the repair for considerably less by following a straightforward procedure.


Tools Of The Trade
Standard screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers
Valve stem wrench
Plumber's grease
Valve stem

Step 1:
Shut off the water supply to the faucet by turning the handle or knob on the shutoff valves under the sink completely clockwise. If there are no shutoff valves under the sink, shut off the main water valve for the home. Open the faucet and let the residual water drain out.

Step 2:
Pry off the button cap in the center of the faucet handle using a standard screwdriver. The button cap may have a C or H imprinted on it, designating it as hot or cold.

Step 3:
Remove the screw at the center of the handle using a Phillips screwdriver to turn the screw counterclockwise. Pull off the handle from the valve stem once the screw is completely detached.

Step 4:
Fish the washer out from around the valve stem, if there is one, using a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Step 5:
Place a valve stem wrench over the valve stem and turn it counterclockwise until it is loose enough to remove completely by hand.

Step 6:
Smear the new valve stem with plumber's grease and thread it into the seat at the bottom of the faucet handle. Tighten the valve stem using the valve stem wrench. Reassemble the faucet handle and restore the water supply to the faucet.

Cleaning Or Replacing Faucet Aerator

An aerator is a round metal device with a screen in the center that attaches to the end of a faucet. The aerator mixes air into the water stream to prevent the water from splashing in the sink. Many modern aerators have restrictors built-in to them to help save water. Over time, an aerator can become clogged with mineral deposits and may need to be cleaned or even replaced. You can accomplish the task of removing the aerator from your faucet and either cleaning or replacing it with a minimal amount of effort.


Tools Of The Trade
Painter's tape
Slip-joint pliers
Small plastic container
Spray lubricant
Aerator


Step 1:
Locate the aerator at the end of the faucet and wrap a couple of layers of painter's tape around it. The tape will help protect the finish from the pliers jaws and will remove easily when the job is finished.

Step 2:
Grasp the aerator with a pair of slip-joint pliers and turn it counterclockwise. Ensure that you only grab the aerator and not the end of the faucet. Loosen the aerator with the pliers enough so that you can remove it completely by hand.

Step 3:
Disassemble the aerator and soak the parts in a small plastic container filled with a spray lubricant such as WD40. Soak the parts for 20 minutes then rinse them thoroughly in warm water. If the aerator shows signs of rust or other excessive wear, replace it with a new one which you can purchase from most hardware or home improvement stores.

Step 4:
Reassemble the parts of the aerator and hand-thread it back onto the end of the faucet clockwise. If you are installing a new aerator, wrap its circumference with painter's tape to protect its finish. Tighten the aerator using the slip-joint pliers. Don't over-tighten the aerator or you may damage it. Remove the painter's tape once you have finished installing the aerator.

Replacing A Water Supply Hose

Sink fixtures and toilets receive their water supply through a hose that is attached to the water line or shutoff valve. The water supply hose is made of braided steel or plastic tubing and has a fitting at either end. Over time, the hose can develop cracks in its body or a loosening of the fittings. Either situation can lead to the hose leaking water. If the hose is not replaced, the leak can become worse and cause a fair amount of damage to your home. You can replace a worn water supply hose in just a few minutes and with the use of a common household tool.


Tools Of The Trade
Old towel
Adjustable wrench
Teflon tape
Water supply hose
Paper towel

Step 1:
Turn the handle or the knob on the shutoff valve completely clockwise to shut off the water supply. If there is no individual shutoff associated with the water supply hose being replaced, or if the shutoff is stuck, shut off the main water valve for the home. Turn on the faucet or flush the toilet to remove residual water from the hose being replaced.

Step 2:
Place an old towel under the hose to catch any residual water that may drip.

Step 3:
Unfasten the fittings at both ends of the water supply hose by turning them counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench. Remove the fittings by hand once they are loose enough to do so. Dispose of the hose.

Step 4:
Wrap the threads to which the hose fittings attach with Teflon tape. Wrap the tape clockwise around the threads to help seal the connections.

Step 5:
Fasten the fittings on both ends by hand to ensure they don't cross-thread. Tighten the fittings with the adjustable wrench clockwise until they are snug.

Step 6:
Restore the water supply and wipe the hose and fittings dry with a paper towel. Check for drips coming from the fittings. Tighten the fittings an eighth of a turn at a time if you notice drips. Place a paper towel under the hose and check it for the next day to ensure there are no intermittent drips.

Shelves and Wall Hangings Using Anchors

The most optimum and secure way to hang shelves or wall hangings, such as mirrors or paintings, is by attaching them to a location on the wall where a stud is present. However, this is not always possible. For these situations there are wall anchors, which can be used to securely attach heavy items to plaster or drywall. If anchors are not used, the weight of the item can pull the screws out of the plaster or drywall over time and can cause damage or injury. You can hang items using wall anchors by following a straightforward procedure that requires a moderate amount of time and effort.

Tools Of The Trade
Pencil
Electric drill
Drill bit
Wall anchors and screws
Hammer
Driver bit

Step 1:
Determine a location on the wall where the item is to be hung. Hold the item on the wall and ensure it is straight. Mark the wall with a pencil where the brackets or hardware must be placed in order to hang the item.

Step 2:
Place the brackets or hardware against the wall and mark the screw holes using a pencil.

Step 3:
Install a drill bit into the chuck at the end of the drill. Use a drill bit that is the same size as the anchors being used.

Step 4:
Hold the trigger part of the drill in your dominant hand and place your other hand under the front of the drill, just behind the chuck. Position the drill at a 90-degree angle to the wall's surface and hold it in that position the entire time you are drilling. Use a moderate amount of pressure to guide the drill into the wall over each pencil mark you previously drew. Back out the drill bit while it is still spinning to avoid damaging the edges of the holes.

Step 5:
Insert a wall anchor into each hole and tap them gently with a hammer to make them flush to the wall's surface.

Step 6:
Secure the brackets or hardware using the screws that came with the anchors and using the electric drill with a driver bit installed. Hang the item on the hardware or brackets once they have been installed.

Shower Head Replacement

Whether you wish to replace your old shower head with a standard model or one with a wand and hose, the task can be accomplished in just a few minutes. A shower head connects to the threaded water supply line that protrudes from the wall. Removing the old shower head and connecting a new one requires basic tools and a minimal amount of skill. Once completed, you'll be amazed at how easy it was.

Tools Of The Trade
Painter's tape
Two pairs of slip-joint pliers
Steel wool
Teflon tape


Step 1:
Wrap several layers of painter's tape around the shower water supply line protruding from the wall to protect its finish. Wrap the base of the old shower head if you want to save it for use elsewhere. The painter's tape will protect the finishes and will remove easily once you have completed the job.

Step 2:
Grasp the water line securely with a pair of slip-joint pliers and hold it steady. Grasp the base of the old shower head with another pair of slip-joint pliers and turn the fitting counterclockwise. Loosen the fitting with the pliers until you can remove it completely by hand.

Step 3:
Clean the threads on the end of the water line with steel wool. Rub the threads lightly with the steel wool to remove mineral deposits and other debris.

Step 4:
Wrap the threads on the end of the water line clockwise with Teflon tape. The Teflon tape will help seal the connection against leaks.

Step 5:
Thread the fitting of the new shower head onto the end of the water line by hand to ensure it doesn't cross-thread. Wrap the fitting with painter's tape to protect the finish. Tighten the fitting using the two slip-joint pliers as you did when you removed the old shower head. Don't over-tighten the fitting, but just make it snug. Remove the painter's tape.

Shutoff Valve Installation

A shutoff valve at the termination point on a water line allows the flow of water to be stopped to a single fixture, like a sink or toilet, without interrupting the water supply for the entire home. Over time, a shutoff valve can fail and begin to leak. You should regularly check the shutoff valves present in your home to catch minor leaks before they turn into damaging floods. The easiest and best replacement for a shutoff is a compression valve. This type of shutoff requires no soldering and most have a quarter turn ball stop instead of the old-style gate valve that must be turned several revolutions to turn it off or on.

Tools Of The Trade
Slip-joint pliers
Adjustable wrench
Keyhole hacksaw
Quarter turn compression valve


Step 1:
Turn off the main water shutoff for the home. Open the faucet or flush the toilet where the shutoff being replaced is located to remove residual water from the line.

Step 2:
Disconnect the water supply hose from the shutoff valve by turning the fitting at the end counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench.

Step 3:
Grasp the shutoff valve securely with a pair of slip-joint pliers and turn the nut that secures it counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench. Loosen the nut with the wrench until you can remove it completely by hand. Remove the shutoff and pull off the small brass compression ring at the end of the pipe using the pliers to wriggle it free. Remove the nut once the ring has been removed. If the old shutoff valve is soldered, cut it off the end of the pipe using a keyhole hacksaw. Cut as close to the valve as you can and at a 90-degree angle.

Step 4:
Place the nut from the new shutoff onto the end of the pipe with the threads pointing toward the end. Fit the brass compression ring that was provided with the new shutoff onto the end of the pipe leaving about a half an inch of pipe sticking past the ring.

Step 5:
Insert the new shutoff valve onto the end of the of the pipe and bring the nut forward and thread it onto the shutoff valve's threads. Ensure that the nut doesn't cross-thread. Tighten the nut using the adjustable wrench. Reattach the water supply hose to the new shutoff and restore the water supply. If you notice drips of water from the shutoff, tighten the nut an eighth of a turn at a time until the drip stops.

Toilet Flapper Replacement

The flapper in the standard toilet is usually made of rubber and covers the hole in the bottom of the tank. When the handle is engaged, it lifts the flapper and allows the water in the tank to flush into the toilet bowl. As the tank empties, the flapper falls back over the hole and allows the tank to refill with water. Over time, the flapper can wear and deteriorate, allowing water to leak by it. This can cause the toilet to run. You can replace the flapper in your toilet in just a few minutes.


Tools Of The Trade
Flapper
Needle-nose pliers


Step 1:
Turn the handle or the knob on the shutoff valve under the left side of the tank completely clockwise to interrupt the water supply. Flush the toilet to remove most of the water in the tank and remove the tank lid. Notice the type of flapper that is present and purchase the same type when you go to the hardware or home improvement store.  The flapper may be one piece and attached to the bottom of the overflow tube. Or it may be on a bracket. There is a chain that connects the handle to the bracket or directly to the flapper.

Step 2:
Remove the flapper from the bottom of the overflow tube or the entire bracket from the mount at the bottom of the tank. In either case there are pins on both sides that the flapper or the bracket can be easily taken off of by hand.

Step 3:
Detach the chain from the flapper or the bracket. The chain may have a clip that can be operated by hand or you may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to disconnect it. If the flapper is on a bracket and you are not replacing the bracket, there is no need to remove the chain.

Step 4:
Attach the chain to the new flapper and secure it to the pins in the same location that the old one occupied. If the flapper is on a bracket, unscrew it from the bracket and connect the new flapper to bracket in the same location. If the bracket is in need of replacing, attach the chain to the new bracket. Secure the bracket to the mount at the bottom of the tank.

Step 5:
Restore the water supply by turning the handle or the knob on the shutoff valve completely counterclockwise. Replace the tank lid and flush the toilet several times to test it.

Faucet Installation

Replacing an old and worn faucet in the kitchen or bathroom can improve the decor of the entire room. A plumber may charge you well over $100 dollars, according to 2011 prices, to install a faucet. And that doesn't include the cost of the faucet. You can install a new faucet on your kitchen or bathroom sink using the correct tools and with a moderate investment of time and effort.

Tools Of The Trade
Adjustable wrench
Basin wrench
Putty knife
Dish soap
Scrubbing pad
Dish towel
Plumber's putty
Teflon tape
Water supply hoses

Step 1:
Locate the shutoff valves under the sink and turn them completely clockwise to shut off the water supply. If there are no individual shutoffs under the sink, find the main water shutoff for the home and shut it off.

Step 2:
Disconnect both ends of the water supply hoses that connect the shutoff valves or water water lines to the bottom of the facuet stems. Use an adjustable wrench to turn the fittings counterclockwise to remove them. It's always a good idea to replace these hoses when you install a new fixture, unless they have been recently replaced.

Step 3:
Remove the faucet nuts under the sink basin using a basin wrench. A basin wrench is a specially designed tool to make it easier to remove the nuts from the tight space under the basin. Loosen the nuts with the wrench enough to remove them completely by hand. Pull off the old fixture from the sink top.

Step 4:
Scrape off the sink top where you removed the old fixture. Use a putty knife to remove chunks of debris and old putty. Clean the top with dish soap and a scrubbing pad. Rinse the top and dry it with a dish towel.

Step 5:
Place a bead of plumber's putty around the underneath of the new fixture and set the fixture into position on the sink top. Ensure that the fixture is on the sink top straight. Hand-tighten the faucet nuts onto the faucet stems and check to ensure that the fixture didn't move. Tighten the nuts completely using the basin wrench.

Step 6:
Connect the large fittings from the new water supply hoses to the bottom of the faucet stems after wrapping the stems with Teflon tape, which will help seal them. Tighten the fittings using an adjustable wrench. Connect the other end of the hoses to the shutoff valves after wrapping the threads of the shutoffs with Teflon tape. Ensure that you connect the hose for the hot water to the shutoff on the hot water line and the cold to the cold. Ensure that all the fittings are snug. Restore the water supply and check for drips. If any drips appear at any of the connections, turn the fitting where the leak is and eighth of turn at a time until the drip stops.

Toilet Seal Replacement

The standard floor flush toilet is bolted to a flange that is attached to the top of the drain stack in the floor. Between the flange and the toilet-base is a seal that is usually made of wax or rubber. The seal prevents water from escaping when the toilet is flushed. If you notice water around the toilet-base on the floor, you may need a new seal. You can replace the seal on your toilet yourself and save the expense of having a professional plumber complete the job. A new seal is less than $10, according to 2011 prices and can be installed in about an hour.


Tools Of The Trade
Sponge
Slip-joint pliers
Adjustable wrench
Rubber gloves
Putty knife
Newspaper
Garbage bag
Toilet bolts
Toilet seal

Step 1:
Turn off the shutoff valve located under the left side of the toilet tank toward the floor. Turn the handle or knob on the shutoff valve completely clockwise.

Step 2:
Flush the toilet to remove most of the water. With the shutoff valve turned off, the tank will not refill. Lift off the toilet tank lid and place it in a safe place. Extract the remaining water in the tank with a sponge. Soak up as much water from the bowl as you can using the sponge.

Step 3:
Disconnect the water supply hose that connects the bottom of the flush valve with shutoff valve. Use a pair of slip-joint pliers to turn the fitting on the end of the flush valve counterclockwise.

Step 4:
Remove the toilet bolt caps on top of the bolts on either side of the toilet-base. Usually the caps can be removed by hand, but if they are stuck, use the pliers to twist them off the bolts.

Step 5:
Unfasten the nuts on the toilet bolts by turning them counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench. Stand over the toilet with one hand on either side of the bowl and lift straight up. Place the toilet out of the way on some news paper so that you protect the bathroom floor.

Step 6:
Scrape off the old seal from the top of the flange using a putty knife. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands from the debris. Clean off as much debris as you can. Place the debris on newspaper, wrap it up and place it in a garbage bag.

Step 7:
Slide the old toilet bolts through the channel in the flange to the wide part where you can pull out the bolts completely. Place new bolts in the wide part of the channel and slide them all the way to the other end. Place the new seal over the top of the flange and ensure that it doesn't cover any part of the drain.

Step 8:
Hold the toilet over the flange and align the bolts with the holes in the toilet-base. Gently lower the toilet onto the bolts. Tighten the nuts onto the bolts by hand to ensure that they don't cross-thread. Finish tightening the bolts using the adjustable wrench. Replace the bolt caps and reconnect the water suply hose to the bottom of the flush valve. Turn the shutoff valve completely counterclockwise to restore the water supply to the toilet.

Toilet Flush Valve Replacement

A standard toilet flushes when the handle lifts the flapper from a hole in the bottom of the toilet tank and allows the water in the tank to flush the bowl. This, along with a small jet in the bottom front of the bowl, pushes the debris down the drain. The bowl refills via a flush valve that is connected to the water line with a water supply hose. If your toilet is refilling slowly after flushing or not at all, you may need to replace the flush valve. This repair can be accomplished in less than half an hour and with the use of common household tools.

Tools Of The Trade
Sponge
New flush valve
Slip-joint pliers
Utility knife

Step 1:
Locate the toilet's shutoff valve under the left side of the tank on the floor. Turn the handle or knob on the shutoff valve completely clockwise to stop the flow of water to the tank.

Step 2:
Flush the toilet to remove most of the water. Remove the toilet tank top and use a sponge to extract the remaining water from the tank.

Step 3:
Unscrew the water supply hose from the bottom of the flush valve that sticks through the bottom of the tank. Turn the fitting on the end of the hose counterclockwise using your hand or a pair of slip-joint pliers.

Step 4:
Unfasten the plastic nut from around the bottom of the flush valve using the slip-joint pliers. Turn the nut counterclockwise to unloosen and remove it. From inside the tank, pull out the black hose from the overflow tube and remove the old flush valve.

Step 5:
Lay the new flush valve next to the old one and extend the telescoping bottom if it shorter than the old one.

Step 6:
Cut out the center of the black rubber gasket that was provided with the new flush valve using a utility knife. Place the gasket over the end of the flush valve with the flanged end pointing toward the end of the flush valve.

Step 7:
Set the new flush valve in the hole in the bottom of the tank and from underneath the tank thread the plastic nut onto the end of the flush valve sticking through the bottom. Hand-tighten the nut and then tighten it the rest of the way using a pair of slip-joint pliers. Don't over-tighten the nut. Reconnect the water supply hose.

Step 8:
Connect one end of the black rubber hose that was provided with the new flush valve to the small plastic nipple at the top of the valve. Connect the other end to the plastic clip that came with the flush valve and set the clip into the overflow tube on the inside back of the tank. Replace the toilet tank top and restore the water supply by turning the handle or knob on the shutoff valve completely counterclockwise.