Garbage disposals first began to appear in homes in the late 1940s and are now standard equipment in the modern kitchen. The design of a garbage disposal is fairly simple and hasn't changed much over the years. A motor spins a drive shaft which is connected to a drum that contains sharp cutting blades. The blades pulverize food waste as they spin. If your garbage disposal stops working, you can troubleshoot the problem before calling a plumber and possibly save yourself the cost of an expensive service call.
Tools Of The Trade
Garbage disposal wrench
Flashlight
Long standard screwdriver
Step 1:
Turn off the switch that controls the garbage disposal.
Step 2:
Locate the reset button on the bottom of the garbage disposal. Probe the bottom of the unit with your hand until you find the button. Press the button in and hold it for 15 seconds. Turn the unit back on to determine if that solved the problem.
Step 3:
Unplug the garbage disposal from the wall outlet or turn off the circuit breaker associated with the unit if the previous step didn't work.
Step 4:
Insert the specialized wrench that came with the garbage disposal into the fitting underneath the disposal. The wrench looks like a large Allen wrench that is bent at either end. The wrench can be used to free a stuck drive shaft. Move the drive shaft back and forth with the wrench, then restore power to the unit and turn on the switch. Sometimes this is enough to get the garbage disposal spinning again.
Step 5:
Shine a flashlight into drain if the garbage disposal is humming but won't spin. Use a long standard screwdriver to probe the edges to determine if something has been lodged in between and is preventing the drum from spinning. Ensure that you unplug the unit or shut off its circuit breaker while performing this task. If you see something stuck, try to pry it out with the screwdriver and reach in a grab it with your hand. Many times silverware or other small objects can become lodged between the drum and the housing and prevent the unit from functioning.
Monday, November 21, 2011
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Replacing Screen On Sliding Patio Door
A sliding screen door allows warm air to enter the home while keeping out bugs and other pests. Over time and with use, the screen in the door can become worn and even tear. When this happens the screen can no longer keep out the bugs and pests as it was designed to do. You can replace an old and worn screen in your patio door with the right tools and materials and with a moderate investment of time.
Tools Of The Trade
Two saw horses
Piece of plywood
Eight one foot pieces of 2-by-4s
2-1/2 inch wood screws
Electric drill
Driver bit
Standard screwdriver
Spline
Screen
Spline tool
Utility knife
Step 1:
Remove the door from the frame by grabbing it on both sides and lifting it up and pulling out the bottom from the track. Pull the top out of the track on top once the bottom has been removed.
Step 2:
Setup two saw horses parallel to each other and about five feet apart. Lay a piece of plywood on top of the saw horses. Place the screen door on the plywood.
Step 3:
Place two pieces of one foot lengths of 2-by-4s around each corner of the door and secure them to the plywood using 2-1/2 inch wood screws and an electric drill with a driver bit installed. The 2-by-4s will ensure that the door frame stays square while the old screen is removed and the new one is installed.
Step 4:
Pry out the spline that holds the old screen into the frame using a standard screwdriver and starting at a corner. Pull out the entire spline from around the door using a combination of the screwdriver and your hand. Pull off the old screen from the frame once all the spline has been removed.
Step 5:
Place the new screen evenly over the frame. When you purchase the screen ensure that it is 3 to 4 inches larger on all sides than the door frame.
Step 6:
Press the new spline over the screen and into the channel in the door frame, thus trapping the screen in the channel. Ensure that the spline has no slack in it as you work it into the channel around the frame. Use a spline tool to insert the spline into the channel. Also ensure that the screen lays flat and doesn't wrinkle.
Step 7:
Cut off the excess screen from around the frame using a utility knife. Reinstall the door by inserting the top into the track at the top of the door frame, then set the bottom in place.
Tools Of The Trade
Two saw horses
Piece of plywood
Eight one foot pieces of 2-by-4s
2-1/2 inch wood screws
Electric drill
Driver bit
Standard screwdriver
Spline
Screen
Spline tool
Utility knife
Step 1:
Remove the door from the frame by grabbing it on both sides and lifting it up and pulling out the bottom from the track. Pull the top out of the track on top once the bottom has been removed.
Step 2:
Setup two saw horses parallel to each other and about five feet apart. Lay a piece of plywood on top of the saw horses. Place the screen door on the plywood.
Step 3:
Place two pieces of one foot lengths of 2-by-4s around each corner of the door and secure them to the plywood using 2-1/2 inch wood screws and an electric drill with a driver bit installed. The 2-by-4s will ensure that the door frame stays square while the old screen is removed and the new one is installed.
Step 4:
Pry out the spline that holds the old screen into the frame using a standard screwdriver and starting at a corner. Pull out the entire spline from around the door using a combination of the screwdriver and your hand. Pull off the old screen from the frame once all the spline has been removed.
Step 5:
Place the new screen evenly over the frame. When you purchase the screen ensure that it is 3 to 4 inches larger on all sides than the door frame.
Step 6:
Press the new spline over the screen and into the channel in the door frame, thus trapping the screen in the channel. Ensure that the spline has no slack in it as you work it into the channel around the frame. Use a spline tool to insert the spline into the channel. Also ensure that the screen lays flat and doesn't wrinkle.
Step 7:
Cut off the excess screen from around the frame using a utility knife. Reinstall the door by inserting the top into the track at the top of the door frame, then set the bottom in place.
Furnace Thermocouple Replacement
A thermocouple on a gas furnace has one end connected to the gas valve and the other connected to the pilot light. When it senses that the pilot has been extinguished, the thermocouple shuts off the valve to stop the flow of gas. If the pilot on your furnace will not stay lighted, and there hasn't been an interruption of gas service into the home, you may have a malfunctioning thermocouple. You can purchase a new thermocouple at most hardware or home improvement stores for less than $20, according to 2011 prices. Take the old thermocouple to the store with you to ensure that the replacement is the correct length.
Tools Of The Trade
Standard screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Nut driver
Adjustable wrench
Thermocouple
Step 1:
Shut off the gas supply to the furnace by locating the closest shutoff valve and turning it completely clockwise.
Step 2:
Locate the pilot light access panel, which is usually toward the bottom of the furnace in the front. Remove the fasteners that secure the access panel using a standard screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver or nut driver, depending on the type of fasteners used. Turn the screws counterclockwise to loosen them.
Step 3:
Unfasten the old thermocouple from the gas valve and the pilot light using an adjustable wrench to turn the fittings counterclockwise.
Step 4:
Install the new thermocouple by threading the fittings on both ends clockwise onto the valve and the pilot light by hand. Tighten the fittings completely using the adjustable wrench.
Step 5:
Restore the gas supply to the furnace and relight the pilot light. Replace the access panel.
Tools Of The Trade
Standard screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Nut driver
Adjustable wrench
Thermocouple
Step 1:
Shut off the gas supply to the furnace by locating the closest shutoff valve and turning it completely clockwise.
Step 2:
Locate the pilot light access panel, which is usually toward the bottom of the furnace in the front. Remove the fasteners that secure the access panel using a standard screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver or nut driver, depending on the type of fasteners used. Turn the screws counterclockwise to loosen them.
Step 3:
Unfasten the old thermocouple from the gas valve and the pilot light using an adjustable wrench to turn the fittings counterclockwise.
Step 4:
Install the new thermocouple by threading the fittings on both ends clockwise onto the valve and the pilot light by hand. Tighten the fittings completely using the adjustable wrench.
Step 5:
Restore the gas supply to the furnace and relight the pilot light. Replace the access panel.
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Soldering Copper Plumbing
Much of the plumbing in the modern home consist of copper pipes. Copper is durable, easy to work with and doesn't rust like iron or steel. Lengths of copper plumbing are connected together via couplings, Ts and elbows. The connection is sealed using solder and a propane torch. Shutoff valves can also be soldered, although in many modern applications a compression fitting is used. No matter what the copper plumbing task, you can achieve professional results by following a straightforward procedure.
Tools Of The Trade
Emery paper
Propane torch
Silver solder
Bucket of cool water
Rag
Step 1:
Clean the ends of the copper pipe being soldered as well as the insides of the coupling, T or elbow being used. Use emery paper to rub off any oils or dirt on the copper, which can prevent you from achieving a solid solder joint. Place a bucket of cool water in the work area in case flammable material around the pipe becomes ignited.
Step 2:
Fit the copper pipes into the coupling, T or elbow and ensure they are completely and evenly inserted.
Step 3:
Light the propane torch and adjust the flame so that the tip of it is blue.
Step 4:
Hold the tip of the flame on the joint you are soldering for about 30 seconds to heat the metal thoroughly.
Step 5:
Touch the tip of the silver solder to the joint while continuing to hold the torch's flame on the joint but not directly on the solder. The solder will melt when touched to the heated copper and roll around the joint. Move the tip of the solder around the entire circumference of the joint to esnure it has a bead of solder on it. Place a cool damp rag on the joint to cool the solder quickly.
Tools Of The Trade
Emery paper
Propane torch
Silver solder
Bucket of cool water
Rag
Step 1:
Clean the ends of the copper pipe being soldered as well as the insides of the coupling, T or elbow being used. Use emery paper to rub off any oils or dirt on the copper, which can prevent you from achieving a solid solder joint. Place a bucket of cool water in the work area in case flammable material around the pipe becomes ignited.
Step 2:
Fit the copper pipes into the coupling, T or elbow and ensure they are completely and evenly inserted.
Step 3:
Light the propane torch and adjust the flame so that the tip of it is blue.
Step 4:
Hold the tip of the flame on the joint you are soldering for about 30 seconds to heat the metal thoroughly.
Step 5:
Touch the tip of the silver solder to the joint while continuing to hold the torch's flame on the joint but not directly on the solder. The solder will melt when touched to the heated copper and roll around the joint. Move the tip of the solder around the entire circumference of the joint to esnure it has a bead of solder on it. Place a cool damp rag on the joint to cool the solder quickly.
Friday, November 11, 2011
Stove Top Igniter Replacement
Most gas stoves manufactured since the early 1980s are equppied with an electronic igniter. The igniter provides a spark that lights the pilot light when the burners are operated. This method saves fuel because the burners are only burning gas when the unit is operating instead of all the time as stoves did previously. If the burners on your gas stove top are not lighting, you may need to replace the igniter. You can accomplish this task by following a step-by-step procedure that requires a minimal amount of time and effort.
Tools Of The Trade
Phillips screwdriver
Igniter
Step 1:
Unplug the stove's electrical cord or shut off the circuit breaker associated with the stove.
Step 2:
Remove the burner grates and anything else on the stove top.
Step 3:
Lift up the stove top and place the prop rod underneath it to keep it raised in the service position. Some tops don't have a prop rod because they lock into the upright position when lifted.
Step 4:
Locate the igniter, which is a cylindrical device the size of a roll of quarters and sits next to the pilot light.
Step 5:
Unfasten the two screws that secure the igniter to its bracket using a Phillips screwdriver to turn the screws counterclockwise.
Step 6:
Pull off the wiring clip from the igniter by hand. Dispose of the old igniter.
Step 7:
Plug the wiring clip into the new igniter and secure it to its bracket using the screws. Lower the stove top and restore power.
Tools Of The Trade
Phillips screwdriver
Igniter
Step 1:
Unplug the stove's electrical cord or shut off the circuit breaker associated with the stove.
Step 2:
Remove the burner grates and anything else on the stove top.
Step 3:
Lift up the stove top and place the prop rod underneath it to keep it raised in the service position. Some tops don't have a prop rod because they lock into the upright position when lifted.
Step 4:
Locate the igniter, which is a cylindrical device the size of a roll of quarters and sits next to the pilot light.
Step 5:
Unfasten the two screws that secure the igniter to its bracket using a Phillips screwdriver to turn the screws counterclockwise.
Step 6:
Pull off the wiring clip from the igniter by hand. Dispose of the old igniter.
Step 7:
Plug the wiring clip into the new igniter and secure it to its bracket using the screws. Lower the stove top and restore power.
Electrical Outlet Replacement
The average American home has many electrical outlets that make it convenient to plug in lamps, computers and other electronic devices. The standard outlet is 120 volts and is usually on a circuit with other outlets and electrical fixtures. If an outlet in your home is not working and the circuit breaker associated with it has not been tripped, the outlet may need to be replaced. You can purchase a new outlet from any hardware or home improvement store for less than $10, according to 2011 prices. Installing the outlet can be accomplished in about 15 minutes.
Tools Of The Trade
Standard screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Voltage tester
Outlet
Step 1:
Turn off the circuit breaker associated with the outlet. Test other outlets in the room with a voltage tester to ensure the electricity has been shut off. Insert the probes from the tester into each of the vertical slots on another outlet in the room and ensure the tester doesn't light or make a sound, depending on the type you are using.
Step 2:
Remove the outlet cover plate for the outlet you are replacing. Turn the screw at the center of the cover plate counterclockwise with a standard screwdriver and remove the plate from the wall. Pry up around the edges of the plate with the screwdriver if it is stuck to the wall.
Step 3:
Unfasten the screws at the top and bottom of the outlet using a Phillips screwdriver to turn the screws counterclockwise. Pull out the outlet slightly once the screws have been removed and check the wires connected to it with the voltage tester to ensure no current is present in them.
Step 4:
Turn the screws where the wires are attached counterclockwise with the Phillips screwdriver. You don't need to remove the screw, but just loosen them enough to detach the wires. There is at least two wires and may be three. The black or red wire is the hot lead, the white wire is the neutral and the copper or green wire is the ground, which may or may not be present. The wires attach to the outlet by wrapping around the screws or by being inserted into a hole which the screw tightens and loosens.
Step 5:
Install the new outlet by connecting the hot lead (the black or red wire) around the brass-colored screw or by inserting it into the hole associated with the brass-colored screw. If you are wrapping the wire around the screw, wrap it clockwise so when you tighten the screw the same way the wire will not fall off the screw. Connect the white wire to the silver-colored screw and the copper or green wire to the green-colored screw using the same method you used to connect the hot lead.
Step 6:
Fasten the outlet to the electrical box in the wall using the two screws provided with it. Replace the cover plate and restore power to the circuit.
Tools Of The Trade
Standard screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Voltage tester
Outlet
Step 1:
Turn off the circuit breaker associated with the outlet. Test other outlets in the room with a voltage tester to ensure the electricity has been shut off. Insert the probes from the tester into each of the vertical slots on another outlet in the room and ensure the tester doesn't light or make a sound, depending on the type you are using.
Step 2:
Remove the outlet cover plate for the outlet you are replacing. Turn the screw at the center of the cover plate counterclockwise with a standard screwdriver and remove the plate from the wall. Pry up around the edges of the plate with the screwdriver if it is stuck to the wall.
Step 3:
Unfasten the screws at the top and bottom of the outlet using a Phillips screwdriver to turn the screws counterclockwise. Pull out the outlet slightly once the screws have been removed and check the wires connected to it with the voltage tester to ensure no current is present in them.
Step 4:
Turn the screws where the wires are attached counterclockwise with the Phillips screwdriver. You don't need to remove the screw, but just loosen them enough to detach the wires. There is at least two wires and may be three. The black or red wire is the hot lead, the white wire is the neutral and the copper or green wire is the ground, which may or may not be present. The wires attach to the outlet by wrapping around the screws or by being inserted into a hole which the screw tightens and loosens.
Step 5:
Install the new outlet by connecting the hot lead (the black or red wire) around the brass-colored screw or by inserting it into the hole associated with the brass-colored screw. If you are wrapping the wire around the screw, wrap it clockwise so when you tighten the screw the same way the wire will not fall off the screw. Connect the white wire to the silver-colored screw and the copper or green wire to the green-colored screw using the same method you used to connect the hot lead.
Step 6:
Fasten the outlet to the electrical box in the wall using the two screws provided with it. Replace the cover plate and restore power to the circuit.
Thursday, November 10, 2011
Faucet Valve Stem Replacement
A two-handle faucet consists of valve stems to which the handles attach. The valve stems control the water flow when the handle is turned. Over time and with use, the valve stems can wear and may become hard to turn or may not completely shut off the water to the faucet. You can expect to pay a professional plumber over $100, according to 2011 prices, to replace a valve stem in your home. You can complete the repair for considerably less by following a straightforward procedure.
Tools Of The Trade
Standard screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers
Valve stem wrench
Plumber's grease
Valve stem
Step 1:
Shut off the water supply to the faucet by turning the handle or knob on the shutoff valves under the sink completely clockwise. If there are no shutoff valves under the sink, shut off the main water valve for the home. Open the faucet and let the residual water drain out.
Step 2:
Pry off the button cap in the center of the faucet handle using a standard screwdriver. The button cap may have a C or H imprinted on it, designating it as hot or cold.
Step 3:
Remove the screw at the center of the handle using a Phillips screwdriver to turn the screw counterclockwise. Pull off the handle from the valve stem once the screw is completely detached.
Step 4:
Fish the washer out from around the valve stem, if there is one, using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Step 5:
Place a valve stem wrench over the valve stem and turn it counterclockwise until it is loose enough to remove completely by hand.
Step 6:
Smear the new valve stem with plumber's grease and thread it into the seat at the bottom of the faucet handle. Tighten the valve stem using the valve stem wrench. Reassemble the faucet handle and restore the water supply to the faucet.
Tools Of The Trade
Standard screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers
Valve stem wrench
Plumber's grease
Valve stem
Step 1:
Shut off the water supply to the faucet by turning the handle or knob on the shutoff valves under the sink completely clockwise. If there are no shutoff valves under the sink, shut off the main water valve for the home. Open the faucet and let the residual water drain out.
Step 2:
Pry off the button cap in the center of the faucet handle using a standard screwdriver. The button cap may have a C or H imprinted on it, designating it as hot or cold.
Step 3:
Remove the screw at the center of the handle using a Phillips screwdriver to turn the screw counterclockwise. Pull off the handle from the valve stem once the screw is completely detached.
Step 4:
Fish the washer out from around the valve stem, if there is one, using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Step 5:
Place a valve stem wrench over the valve stem and turn it counterclockwise until it is loose enough to remove completely by hand.
Step 6:
Smear the new valve stem with plumber's grease and thread it into the seat at the bottom of the faucet handle. Tighten the valve stem using the valve stem wrench. Reassemble the faucet handle and restore the water supply to the faucet.
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